How to pick the right foundation shade

There are three things you need to take into consideration when you are in search of a foundation:

1) SKIN TYPE
the foundation formula and texture you choose should reflect your skin type

Normal Skin

If you have good skin to start with you can use a tinted moisturizer only that gives a light coverage and a sheer finish.

Normal skin can pull off both matte and luminizing foundations including liquid foundations, cream foundation, stick and compact foundations for normal skin.






Dry Skin


Hydrating liquid and cream foundation formulas work best for dry skin. You should look for foundations with emollients and water-binding agents (Glycerin, Hyaluronic acid, Lecithin) with the ability to promote the retention of water. 

Glycerin is a humectant that attracts water from the lower layers of the skin and help to seal in moisture.

Hyaluronic Acid boosts skin's moisture content and prevents moisture loss.

Lecithin is an emollient which softens and soothes the skin and also
seals in moisture.

Combination Skin

Combination skin is a term often used mistakenly for dehydrated skin. If you have an oily T-zone and dry cheeks, you have dehydrated skin.

For this skintype, you need hydrating foundations with water-binding properties.

Whipped foundations are also good for balancing out the skin. 

Oily Skin

Obviously you need matte, oil-free foundation or oil-absorbing properties in the foundation such as Silica which soaks up the oil from the skin.











Mature Skin

High coverage foundation is a big NO-NO! The more layers of foundation you put on attempting to hide wrinkles, the older you look. You want to give back the luminosity to your skin, not piling up for a cakey face.

You should avoid matte and powdery foundations, instead going for liquid foundations while using a good face primer that will prepare the face and fill in the wrinkles beforehand.

Cosmetic ingredients such as AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid), BHA, Retinol and Peptides are beneficial due to their exfoliating properties and for collagen production. 

2) COLOR

Once you found the right formula, then you look for the right shade. 

The most important thing is to test out the foundation. You can bring little empty pots with you to the store and fill them with different shades of the tester foundations, or you can ask for samples. However, make sure you test the foundation in natural daylight, not in artificial light at the store. 

Where do you test foundation?

You always check your neck and declate (chest) area for the right shade of foundation.

The color of your face is not even all over and when your face is darker than your neck it looks like a mask. Start by eliminating those shades that are total mismatch (f.i.: light colors on dark skin).

Warm and cool tones

Foundations come in warm and cool tones regarding the face. If you have more yellow in your skin, you  have a warm undertone, while if you have more red and pink then you are cool-toned.  If you're prone to redness, then check your forehead and your chin to decide.
Accordingly, the general foundation shades are either pink-based or yellow-based.

Then in the "Bobbi Brown way" test the shade that seems a perfect match with the neck on the side of your face, with a shade lighter and a shade darker for comparison. Gently blend and see which color blends in perfectly with the neck.

3) COVERAGE

Foundation is meant to even out and beautify the skin, and to cover minor imperfections! The emphasis is on minor; foundation is not a concealer, it isn't meant to cover blemishes.
The coverage level depends on the condition of your skin and your personal preference.

Coverage is not about the texture because liquid foundations can have as high coverage as stick foundations. (Stick foundations can replace concealers because of their pigment concentration) 

Unless you have to go down the red carpet looking flawless, you don't really need high-coverage foundations. You can decide on having a sheer or matte finish on your skin, but as I see it, foundation should look like skin, so a more natural-looking, lightweight foundation looks great on everyone at any age.

Some examples:

Light/Sheer Coverage: Chanel Vitalumiére Aqua

Medium Coverages: L'oréal True Match, Neutrogena Healthy Skin, Bourjois Healthy Mix, Make Up Forever HD

Full Coverage: Revlon Colorstay, Estée Lauder Double Wear

BEFORE FOUNDATION

Always prepare the skin by using a moisturizer (especially with dry skin). 

Face primers provide a great base for foundation and make it long-wearing. It is advised to use the face primer from the same brand as of the foundation. 

TOOLS

Beautyblender sponge, No7 Foundation brush, Real Techniques Stippling brush

Foundation can be applied with fingers, foundation brushes and sponges.









Again, it's a question of preference. Make sure you use a small amount of foundation at a time and blend it well into the skin. You can always add more, but with foundation it's also true that less is more!