EYELINER GUIDE: GEL, LIQUID, PENCIL

Even those who hardly wear any makeup tend to carry at least a liquid liner in their makeup bags. Why is that? Simply because a liner can instantly enhance and define the eyes. Although being such handy products, it's not so easy to use these type of eyeliners properly. I do get lots and lots of questions regarding eyeliners, so lets's see what we need to know about them.

PENCIL LINERS are the easiest and probably the fastest way to line the eyes. It's pretty easy to handle the pencil and draw a nice line. A new formula has been introduced to line the eyes which is much creamier and softer. The pencil nicely contours the eyes and gives a more natural finish. However, pencils are not always as intense in color and are not as long lasting. You might apply an eyeshadow on top, that way you might make the pencil to be more long-lasting. Make sure you avoid buying eye pencils which are too hard.

1 MAC Kohl Pencil in Smolder 2 L'oréal HIP Color Chrome Eyeliner in Black Shock 3 L'oréal Extra-Intense Liquid Pencil in Carbon Black, Urban decay 24/7 Glide-On Eyeliner in Perversion

LIQUID LINERS are quite popular despite the fact that they are the most diffucult to use. Most liquid liners are too watery which makes them harder to apply and also takes them longer to dry. I also find that they never dry to a completely dry finish. Another problem regards the felt tip. The tip with most liquid liners usually acts way out of your control while the product is being applied. The brush is not of good use if it's too flexible or on the other hand too hard. The size of the brush also matters; if it's too thick you can't make a thin line, while with a thinner brush you can always gradually build up. For beginners, the marker-like pencils are really helpful.

The key with liqiud liner is practice. The more you practise, the better you'll be at it. Keep the brush flat as you apply and use the product sparingly, and slowly build up. Shake the pen before use, it won't dry on you fast. Avoid drawing the line in one stroke, it's much better that you do it in smaller strokes and then connect the lines. 

1 Rimmel Exaggrate Eye Liner 2 Revlon ColorStay Liquid Liner 3 Maybelline Eye Studio Master Precise Ink Pen Eyeliner 4 Artdeco Long Lasting Liquid Liner 01

GEL LINERS have quite a new formula, but a really helpful one. I honestly think that the easiest and the most long-lasting way of eyeliner application is with a gel liner. The application is much easier because the texture is creamy enough, but not watery, so it's a much better texture to work with. They also dry really quickly and really once they dry, they don't move anywhere. You need either a liner brush or an angled brush to use with it. The brush of your choice gives you more control during application. The only problem that I had come across with gel eyeliners is that most of them are not as intense in color as liquid liners are. Also, both the liquid and gel formulations tend to dry out after a while, so they might dry out before you get to the end of the product.

1 MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack 2 Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner in Black Ink 3 L'oréal Hip Color Truth Cream Eyeliner in Black 4 Maybelline  Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Eyeliner in Blackest Black

COMBINATION OF ALL THREE

 

It's a really good idea to combine all three to have a perfect finish. 

1) Start off by using the kohl pencil to create the basic shape you are aiming for. 

2) Then go over the line with a gel eyeliner and perfect all the details.

3) Lastly, go over the line once more with the liquid liner to give it that intense color. At this stage you don't       need to do any correction just place the color on top.

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Holidays Inspired Makeup Look

Season's greetings to you all! I thought I would put together a Holiday-inspired look that you could confidently wear for a Christmas party or just for fun for the holidays. Most products mentioned are from the drugstore, so you could easily access them all. 

Foundation:
Bourjoius Healty Mix Serum Foundation (for light coverage, but healthy-looking skin)

Concealer: 
Revlon PhotoReady Concealer

Blush: 
Bourjois Blush in Rose Ambre (74)

Powder: 
Bourjois Healthy Balance Pressed Powder

Eyeshadow: 
Maybelline Color Tattoo Cream Eyeshadows in Bad to the Bronze / On and on bronze
                                                                                   Bold Gold / Eternal gold
Mascara: 
Rimmel Volume Flash x10 Extreme Black

Lipsticks: 
Rimmel Lasting Finish by Kate Moss in 01 (gorgeous bordeaux red)
if less willing, choose a more subtle shade from the range


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How to Apply Blush

Blush is a fantastic beauty product because it awakens the face immidiately, it gives a very fresh and youthful appearance, and also helps to enhance the cheekbones. It also can be used in a correctional way to shape the face.

Makeup artists tend to vary both the application and placement of powder blush on the face. There isn't really a right or wrong way of blush application as long as it appears natural and is blended well on the face.

Blushes come in powder and cream formulations; cream blushes suit those best with dry skin and mature skin and those who aim for a very natural finish. Still you need very good blending skills for cream blushes which still need to be topped off with a powder blush to be long-lasting. They can simply be applied with fingers on top of a cream surface (foundation).

Powder blushes are applied with a blush brush on a cream or powdered surface. They are easier to blend and quite long-lasting.

Blushes should not really contain any shimmer, it's much better to go for matte textures. The color of the blush should appear as natural as it can be on your face; think about the word 'blush' referring to the act of blushing. Think about how your cheeks look like when you blush or when you pinch your cheeks.

POWDER BLUSH APPLICATION

The most modern approach to blush application is to apply the blush starting from the top of your ear blending it towards your mouth right below the cheekbones. Make sure you soften the edges, so there isn't a harsh line across your face. It suits everyone, but especially those who have a round face shape because this technique slenderizes the face.

If you have a thin or oval face shape it's best to start the application from the middle of the ear and blend it towards your nose. You can also apply blush along the cheekbones or on the apples of the cheeks blending towards the hairline.

SOME GREAT POWDER BLUSHES

MAC Powder Blush in Prism (rosy-brown matte color, suits best fair and medium skintones)

Artdeco Powder Blush 35 (light shimmery pinky shade for medium skintones)

Ben Nye Powder Rouge in Raspberry (matte, vibrant raspberry pink color for dark skintones)

Illamasqua, Tarte, Nars, Chanel, Bourjois, Sleek, NYX are among some makeup brands that offer great quality powder blushes in a great variety of colors.

MAC, Makeup Forever, Chanel, Stila, Tarte, ELF, Max Factor, NYX all have great cream blush selections.

Makeup for Beginners - Basic Inexpensive Makeup Brushes

Even if you are just starting out in makeup, it's essential to have great tools that will help you to perfect any look. You can get away with using cheaper makeup products if you have efficient brushes that will do the work for you well. A great quality brush is a one time investment, so don't hesitate spending money on a good makeup brush. At a beginner level in makeup, there's no need for tons of makeup brushes, rather some basic, multi-task ones which will be in your makeup kit for many years. I'm not a big fan of starter brush kits because they tend to always lack of some basic brushes.

Foundation Brush (optional)

You can simply use your fingers for applying foundation, makeup artists tend to use fingers for a natural application. However, if you have a stick foundation or other more consistent foundations you might want to use a foundation brush.

No7 Foundation Brush £14 

MakeupGeek Flat Foundation Brush $7.99

Real Techniques Expert Face Brush $9 (recommended)

Sigma Beauty F80 Flat Kabuki $18

Face Brush

You only need one multi-task brush to apply powder, blush and bronzer. The brush should definitely be soft, dense and not bigger than a blush brush in size. You should be able to apply blush and contour and powder with it (only for powder-based products).

MAC 109 Small Contour Brush $35 (recommended)

Sigma Beauty F05 Small Contour Brush $16

MakeupGeek Blush Brush $8.99

Angled Eyebrow Brush

It's a small brush with dense bristles cut on an angle which is best to use to fill in the little gaps in your eyebrows with a shadow. If you prefer using a brow pencil, you can skip this brush.

MakeupGeek Brow Brush Duo $4.49 (recommended)

Sigma Beauty E75 Angled Brow $12

Bdellium Tools Studio Line Double Ended Brow Lash Brush $14.17

Flat Eyeshadow Brush

The most basic eyeshadow brush that is used to apply eyeshadow on the eyelids wet or dry. Make sure the size of the brush fits your eyes; it covers your lid space and doesn't go beyond the crease.

Real Techniques Shading Brush $6 (recommended)

Sigma Beauty E55 Eye Shading Brush $10

MAC 239 Eye Shader Brush $25

Blending Brush

It's a soft, fluffy dome brush with long bristles used to shade and blend eyeshadows, for crease work and even to buff in under eye concealer.

MAC 217 Blending Brush $23 (recommended)

Sigma Beauty E25 Blending Brush $10

MakeupGeek Stiff Dome Brush $7.99

Bdellium Tools Pink Bamboo Blending Brush $12 

Detail Brush

Another multi-task brush that is able to do detail work because it gets into smaller areas of the face. It's a soft, tiny brush with dense bristles curved to a point. Best to use for smuding eyeshadow on the lower lashline, highlighting the tear dot or even concealing smaller blemishes.

MakeupGeek Eyeliner Smudge Brush $4.49 (recommended)

No7 Smokey Eye Brush £7.25

                          Bdellium Tools Pink Bamboo Smokey Eyeliner Brush $9.95

                                                 Sigma Beauty E30 Pencil Brush $10

Links: 

MAC click

Real Techniques click (US)

MakeupGeek  click

Sigma click

Bdellium Tools click

Boots click for No7, Real Techniques (UK only)

Cocktail Cosmetics (worldwide) click for Bdellium Tools, Sigma, Real Techniques

Makeup for Beginners: How To Start Wearing Makeup

Makeup is such a feminine and fun way to enhance your natural beauty. It takes a lot of practice to master all the skills needed as well as the observational knowledge you pick up by experience. I honestly believe that in order to become a good makeup artist for yourself you need to practice, observe and take in as much information as you can. 

PRACTISE!

For beginners, experimenting with makeup is a very good starting point. You don't necessarily need tons of products to do that, the key is to practice on yourself. You first have to learn for yourself what works for you. Study your face and see what are your best features - you might have a pretty even skintone, nice cheekbones, a great lip shape and so on. Learn to see your natural beauty and enhance those features. Also, think about how much makeup is needed for you to still feel comfortable in your skin (within your time frame).  

MAKE MISTAKES!

Don't be discouraged if you make mistakes. Mistakes help you to improve. Every time you make a mistake you learn a new lesson about make up. You need to experience what's not working to see what works. Use your face as a canvas and your skills will continue to improve. 

OBSERVE!

YouTube offers numerous tutorial videos to help you guide through the world of make up artistry. However, I can't stress it enough that in order to learn the tricks of the trade you need to listen to ONLY the professional / working, well-experienced make up artists who possess all the skills and knowledge to educate others. Every single day there's a new YouTube "make up guru" emerging and obviously make up is an art form, but their skills and knowledge leaves a lot to be desired. Make up is individual-oriented; you cannot just recreate a  look without adopting it to your face, and most people need correction work on their eyes and lips anyway. If you want to watch educational make up videos Lisa Eldridge, Wayne Goss, MakeupGeek, Pixiwoo are some of those with incredible skills and knowledge.  

STUDY!

If you are really interested in make up artistry, you can find tons of books in this subject. One of my personal recommendations would be Bobbi Brown's Makeup Manual which explains to you everything about the skin, the face, the eyes, the lips, the equipment and so on.

BEGINNER PRODUCTS

As a beginner, you don't need that many products to start practising. I included mostly drugstore, inexpensive products to which everyone has access to. No brushes are needed.

Tinted Moisturizer

Maybelline Dream Fresh BB Cream, L'oréal Magic Skin Beautifier BB Cream,  No7 Beautiful Skin BB Cream

I want to exclude foundation in the beginning because finding the right shade, type and texture of foundation is not easy for a beginner. If you really want to start wearing foundation, then take your time, don't buy the first foundation that is offered to you, keep searching, do research, consult a specialist. 

Please read my How to choose the right shade of foundation post as a start, which is the same for TM. Whether you use foundation or a tinted moisturizer apply them with your fingers; see what coverage you need, how your skin feels and how the foundation performs and wears throughout the day. Start with a small amount from the middle of your face and move outwards where you tend to need less coverage. Keep on practicing!

Eye primer

Eye primers or eyeshadow bases are used on the lids before the eye product application in order to stop the eye products from creasing, to make the shadows last longer and to bring out the real intensity of the colors. If you choose not to get an eye primer, then simply apply your concealer on the eye lids as well.

Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion, Nars Smudge proof Eyeshadow Base, Too Faced Shadow Insurance

I listed some cheaper alternatives, but in this case I'd recommend you buying the high-quality ones, because as long as you have a great eye primer, even the cheapest eyeshadows will show up on your eyes. You only need to apply a tiny bit of the product before eyeshadow or cream shadow. 

FYI: eye primers are still quite new on the market, therefore there isn't a wide variety of them available at the drugstores.

NYX HD Eyeshadow Base, Avon Eyeshadow Base, Elf Mineral Eyeshadow Primer, Artdeco Eyeshadow Base

Cream Eyeshadow

Maybelline Eye Studio Color Tattoo 24HR Cream Gel Shadow

The Color Tattoo cream gel eyeshadows are so gorgeous and so easy to use. This range includes very modern, soft and very easy- to- blend colors. 

Use a primer underneath to prevent creasing and smudging. You don't need a brush, just simply apply the color with a finger onto your eyelids.  Go for the bronze, gold, grey, and plum colors for natural looks and for darker skintones and more colorful looks try the purple and teal colors. You can also use them as eyeliners.

Mascara and Eyelash Curler

L'oréal Volume Million Lashes, L'oréal Voluminous, Maybelline Colossal, Max  Factor False  Lash Effect, Max Factor 2000 Calorie

You can get a cheap eyelash curler from your local drugstore and you will immediately see that it's a fantastic product. Might look scary at first, but it really opens up your eyes. Place it to the roots of your lashes, press together and hold it for 5 seconds, then let it go, move a little further up and hold again for 5 more seconds. 

Mascara is a must have and the drugstore ones are just as good as the expensive ones. You can buy lengthening, volumizing, thickening mascaras, it all depends on what effect you would like to have. After you curled your lashes, start from the lashline and move side to side  with the wand as you move upwards.

Eyeliner

L'oréal Carbon Black Intense Eye Pencil, NYX  Slide-On Eyepencil,  Maybelline  Line Express

First you should get a black and a brown eyeliner and then go on and try different colors. Go for the creamier eyeliners which are more forgiving and glide easier. Start lining your eyes at the roots of your lashes and keep practising until you can draw a quite thin line (you can always thicken it later). You can also line the inner waterline which really defines your eyes. If you have a brown eyeliner that is a shade lighter than your eyebrow color, you can also use it as a brow pencil to accentuate your brows. Don't try to draw a brow, fill in the small gaps instead.

Lipstick and Lipgloss

Rimmel Kate Moss Lipsticks

We skip blush because if you have a creamy lipstick you can also use it as a cream blush. Apply a tiny amount of lipstick with your finger onto the apples of your cheeks and blend it towards the ears. You can always add more but it's harder to take the excess off.

Rimmel Colorstay Lipgloss, NYX Megashine Lipgloss, L'oréal Glam Shine Lipgloss

As a beginner, you can apply your lipstick or lipgloss straight from the tube. Try a pink, coral, plum, brown or red lip product and see what you like best. At first pick a color that is similar to your natural lipcolor and then keep on experimenting. Bright colors look very flattering on darker skintones, fair and medium skintones should go for less intense colors.

What's my skin type?

As for me, I used to find it difficult to answer such an easy question: What's your skin type? 

The condition of your skin - though it's genetically coded, changes quite often due to many factors that affect your life. If you eat unhealthy, consume too much sugar, drink less water, sleep less, become stressed, take medicine just to mention some problems that will show up on your skin. However, your skin type is a constant state your skin is in and is essential to know in order to find the best cosmetic treatment and products intended for your skin.

Normal Skin

It's neither dry nor oily. You have an even skin complexion, there is no discoloration on you face. Your skin has no pimples, blackheads, and pores are barely visible. The skin feels smooth, elastic, and does not get flaky. Basically, you don't really have any problems with your skin.

Dry Skin (Dehydrated Skin, Combination Skin)

Obviously your skin feels dry and often tight and flaky; especially after you take a shower. Your skin lacks moisture and is a bit droopy. Your skin color is a bit dull and not even in color; you might have some red patches. Your skin might also be sensitive to irritation. Pores are visible and pimples and blackheads do appear on your face. Unfortunately, dry skin is more prone to aging, so fine lines are apparent.

You might have an oily T-zone and dry cheeks which means you not only have dry, but also dehydrated skin. Dehydrated skin is what's also known as combination skin.

Tip: Exfoliate twice a week and go for alcohol-free toners and cleansers. Use a heavy and hydrating moisturizer that seals in moisture well. If your T-zone tends to get oily, use an oil-free, lightweight moisturizer in that area. You might also want to invest into a humidifier.

Oily Skin

We talk about oily skin when the whole face is oily. That means it's greasy and shiny due to the overproduction of sebaceous glands. Your skin is very much prone to blackheads and pimples. Pores are large and visible. Your skin has an unpleasant feel to it and might also have an unpleasant smell. But to say something nice about this skin type too, your skin is less likely to show signs of aging.

Tip: Use hydrating cosmetic products formulated for oily skin. Exfoliate regularly and use an oil-free moisturizer. Include only oil-free products in your make up kit. 

Sensitive Skin

It's not really a skin type, but rather a skin condition. You have one of the three skin types listed above, and sensitivity in your skin as an extra. Sensitive skin is thin, dry and tight. You tend to have a lot of redness due to irritation. You might also be sensitive to certain ingredients in cosmetic products that cause itchiness and often a burning feel. Your skin has fine pores and pimples are also present.

Tip: Go for cosmetic products formulated for sensitive skin and choose natural, hypoallergenic products that lack of perfume and preservatory ingredients. 

Problematic Skin

Again, it's a skin condition in which your skin is prone to acne and often gets flaky whether you have dry or oily skin. 

Tip: The best cure is prevention; if you have the right treatments your skin will show improvement (exfoliation, facials, etc...).Consult with a dermatologist or your beautician for the required treatments.

How to pick the right foundation shade

There are three things you need to take into consideration when you are in search of a foundation:

1) SKIN TYPE
the foundation formula and texture you choose should reflect your skin type

Normal Skin

If you have good skin to start with you can use a tinted moisturizer only that gives a light coverage and a sheer finish.

Normal skin can pull off both matte and luminizing foundations including liquid foundations, cream foundation, stick and compact foundations for normal skin.






Dry Skin


Hydrating liquid and cream foundation formulas work best for dry skin. You should look for foundations with emollients and water-binding agents (Glycerin, Hyaluronic acid, Lecithin) with the ability to promote the retention of water. 

Glycerin is a humectant that attracts water from the lower layers of the skin and help to seal in moisture.

Hyaluronic Acid boosts skin's moisture content and prevents moisture loss.

Lecithin is an emollient which softens and soothes the skin and also
seals in moisture.

Combination Skin

Combination skin is a term often used mistakenly for dehydrated skin. If you have an oily T-zone and dry cheeks, you have dehydrated skin.

For this skintype, you need hydrating foundations with water-binding properties.

Whipped foundations are also good for balancing out the skin. 

Oily Skin

Obviously you need matte, oil-free foundation or oil-absorbing properties in the foundation such as Silica which soaks up the oil from the skin.











Mature Skin

High coverage foundation is a big NO-NO! The more layers of foundation you put on attempting to hide wrinkles, the older you look. You want to give back the luminosity to your skin, not piling up for a cakey face.

You should avoid matte and powdery foundations, instead going for liquid foundations while using a good face primer that will prepare the face and fill in the wrinkles beforehand.

Cosmetic ingredients such as AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid), BHA, Retinol and Peptides are beneficial due to their exfoliating properties and for collagen production. 

2) COLOR

Once you found the right formula, then you look for the right shade. 

The most important thing is to test out the foundation. You can bring little empty pots with you to the store and fill them with different shades of the tester foundations, or you can ask for samples. However, make sure you test the foundation in natural daylight, not in artificial light at the store. 

Where do you test foundation?

You always check your neck and declate (chest) area for the right shade of foundation.

The color of your face is not even all over and when your face is darker than your neck it looks like a mask. Start by eliminating those shades that are total mismatch (f.i.: light colors on dark skin).

Warm and cool tones

Foundations come in warm and cool tones regarding the face. If you have more yellow in your skin, you  have a warm undertone, while if you have more red and pink then you are cool-toned.  If you're prone to redness, then check your forehead and your chin to decide.
Accordingly, the general foundation shades are either pink-based or yellow-based.

Then in the "Bobbi Brown way" test the shade that seems a perfect match with the neck on the side of your face, with a shade lighter and a shade darker for comparison. Gently blend and see which color blends in perfectly with the neck.

3) COVERAGE

Foundation is meant to even out and beautify the skin, and to cover minor imperfections! The emphasis is on minor; foundation is not a concealer, it isn't meant to cover blemishes.
The coverage level depends on the condition of your skin and your personal preference.

Coverage is not about the texture because liquid foundations can have as high coverage as stick foundations. (Stick foundations can replace concealers because of their pigment concentration) 

Unless you have to go down the red carpet looking flawless, you don't really need high-coverage foundations. You can decide on having a sheer or matte finish on your skin, but as I see it, foundation should look like skin, so a more natural-looking, lightweight foundation looks great on everyone at any age.

Some examples:

Light/Sheer Coverage: Chanel Vitalumiére Aqua

Medium Coverages: L'oréal True Match, Neutrogena Healthy Skin, Bourjois Healthy Mix, Make Up Forever HD

Full Coverage: Revlon Colorstay, Estée Lauder Double Wear

BEFORE FOUNDATION

Always prepare the skin by using a moisturizer (especially with dry skin). 

Face primers provide a great base for foundation and make it long-wearing. It is advised to use the face primer from the same brand as of the foundation. 

TOOLS

Beautyblender sponge, No7 Foundation brush, Real Techniques Stippling brush

Foundation can be applied with fingers, foundation brushes and sponges.









Again, it's a question of preference. Make sure you use a small amount of foundation at a time and blend it well into the skin. You can always add more, but with foundation it's also true that less is more!